Category: "Travel and Places"

Chile: Iquique – heat at last

September 19th, 2006 |

The northern-most region of Chile is a land of barren rock and the driest desert in the world. One that has no recorded rainfall – ever. This inhospitable region is huge, towns and cities are hundreds of kilometres apart.

The entire region was once Peruvian and Bolivian territory until nitrates were discovered that could be exported at great value – so much value that Chile decided they wanted it and took it in the War of the Pacific, making themselves rich and subjecting Bolivia to poverty and landlocked status. The Chileans, who did not have the expertise to extract the nitrate, called on British and German companies to run the mines. The cities in the region grew when the mining towns were abandoned when the industry collapsed on the German invention of synthetic nitrates during WWI. Herein lays Iquique’s history.

Chile: Puerto Varas

September 19th, 2006 |

The cold Chiloé weather and lack of money prompted us to start the return to the north. To do so we made a stop of in the southern vacation spot of Puerto Varas before taking the bus to Santiago and further still.

Puerto Varas is a tourist haven, thousands of Chileans and Argentinians come here each summer to spend some time on the crystal clear lake under the shadow of two looming volcanoes, Orsorno and Calbuco. We came here because we didn’t have the time or the will to visit Pucon in the Andes.

Chile: Chonchi in Chiloé

September 19th, 2006 |

Chonchi was another beautiful old traditional town. It has managed to keep many of its original timber buildings (despite a large fire in 2002). Unfortunately almost all of its palifitos were destroyed in natural disasters. The colourful church is not original, the natural disasters didn’t spare it, but it has been restored perfectly.

Chile: Achao, Isla Quinchao, in Chiloé

September 19th, 2006 |

Doing anything touristy at this time of year has proven difficult. Most tour operators on the island seems to be completely closed this time of year, which has made it difficult to see some of the best parts of the island. So trying to see as much as we could by taking public transport, we travelled to the Isla Quinchao, to the town of Achao.

Chile: Castro in Chiloé

September 19th, 2006 |

Castro is the third oldest city in Chile, founded in 1567. It is at the end of a fjord that reaches almost 20km into the island of Chiloé. This city has been destroyed again and again by earthquakes and fires and twice by the Dutch. Despite this Castro still retains its character, as these photos show.

Chile: Ancud in Chiloé

September 19th, 2006 |

Ancud was founded in 1769 as a Spanish stronghold in the region, and after Peruvian independence in 1824 it was the Spanish Crown’s last possession in all of South America. The bay is surrounded by forts like the one you can see in the images attached. Spanish Ancud was able to fight off one Free-Chilean attack, but cold and demoralised fled in the face of a second.

Chile: Puerto Montt

September 18th, 2006 |

We arrived to this city in the late evening in the dark and were shocked at how dirty and run-down the city was in comparison to what we had seen so far. We hoped that by daylight the place would look at least a little better.
In the morning we awoke to a city of fog, cold, run-down buildings, graffiti, stray dogs, homelessness and filth.

Chile: Valdivia

September 18th, 2006 |

Valdivia, being hundreds of miles south of Santiago and Valparaíso – in this country of unimaginable distances, takes over 10 hours to get to by bus. For this reason we took an overnight bus, which also saved on a hotel room. We were in for a shock upon disembarking the overheated night bus at 7am. Within seconds we were scrambling through our bags for extra fleeces and hoping we would be able to find a hot cup of tea quickly.

Chile: Viña del Mar

September 7th, 2006 |

This is a more modern town that sits on the edge of Valparaiso. Normally it is visited for its beaches, but we are here in the winter and it is a little too cold for that. The town has more hotels, restaurants and bars which is its over purpose.

Chile: Valparaiso – Down Below

September 7th, 2006 |

Here you really feel like you could be in Victorian England, the streets and buildings date from around that time and are lined with telegraph wires and power lines for the bus-trams.
The port is still a working port and alot of cargo destined for this region of Chile arrives here.

Chile: Valparaiso – Up Above

September 7th, 2006 |

We arrived in Valparaiso and went straight to Cerro Concepción to our hotel.
This city is composed of two parts, the sea-level ocean front and the cerros behind, where houses are delicately perched and special ascensores are in place to take you up to the streets above, which would otherwise be a near-vertical climb to get to.

Chile: Santiago’s Cerro Santa Lucia

September 7th, 2006 |

Santa Lucia is another high lump of mountain in the middle of the city with good views. It is here where Valdivia founded the city after marking out the streets. It is now a city park.
We spent about a hour climbing it, eating ice cream and admiring the views.