Kevin Pang is glad Peruvian Pollo a la Brasa is available in his home city of Chicago. He visits several local restaurants and raves about the wonderful flavour of Peruvian-style chicken.
Cesar Izquierdo speaks in a baritone so sultry, he should only be able to describe food on Cinemax after 10 p.m. It leaves you desperately in the mood.
Izquierdo, proprietor of Rogers Park’s Taste of Peru (6545 N. Clark St., 773-381-4540), was talking one day about pollo a la brasa, the South American-style of rotisserie chicken ubiquitous on the East Coast but a relative unknown in Chicago. If you’re in New York, pop into the Pio Pio chain and witness roast chicken elevated from humble meal to fanaticism.
He reminisced about his mother’s roast chicken recipe. Izquierdo would fight with his brother for dibs on the first piece. They’d both want the wings because a wing has the most skin and, therefore, the most flavor, the most char and the crispiest texture. He’s describing that magical chicken now … he’s rolling his “R’s” … and I’m breaking into a cold sweat listening.