Eating in Lima – What not to miss – China-Influenced
March 26, 2009
Part four- China-Influenced
Peruvian food was all but unknown to the world a decade ago, but this has begun to change in recent years. In 2004 an article appeared in The Economist. “Peru can lay claim to one of the world’s dozen or so great cuisines“. As the news spread of the discovery of one of the world’s best kept secrets, the excitement began to build. In 2006 at the Madrid Fusion Fourth International Summit of Gastronomy, one of the field’s most important conferences, top chefs, critics and journalists were blown away. The rumours were true, and the city of Lima, where many of the nation’s 400+ national and regional dishes can be found in cheap local haunts and fancy restaurants alike, was declared the Gastronomic Capital of the Americas.
——————–
China-Influenced
Lomo Saltado (by Victor Lee)
A boom in Chinese immigration to the Peruvian coast in the 1800s brought with it a new style of cooking and new flavours. Though this meant importing some traditional ingredients, in the majority of cases Chinese families and new Chinese restaurant owners had to make do with local ingredients. This fusion of two culinary worlds created Peru’s famous chifa, the name by which Peruvians call Chinese food.
One of these great fusion creations isn’t even sold in most Chifa restaurants and is now considered more of a creole meal. Strips of beef steak are stir-fried with fried potato, onions, tomato and ají amarillo then flavoured with a little soy sauce, garlic and cilantro to make Lomo Saltado. Although it is served Chinese-style with rice on the side, it is interesting to see how a Chinese stir fry makes use of Peruvian potatoes. If this is not sold at your local Chifa, it will be found at any creole restaurant.
Arroz Chaufa
Chinese food has conquered Peru as it has most of the rest of the world. You can find a Chifa restaurant on every street and chifa is one of Peru’s most popular meals. It is also very affordable for most families, with simple Arroz Chaufa – stir fried rice mixed with chicken or pork meat and vegetables – can be had in the cheapest simplest low-end restaurants for just over $1 US.
But Chifa isn’t just a low-end affair. Classier restaurants exist that attract wealthier locals and tourists alike, Wa Lok, found in Chinatown and Miraflores, is an excellent example. But whether high-end or low-end, all Chifa restaurants serve Inca Kola with their meals.
Inca Kola with Chifa
The bubble-gum tasting soda is actually Hierba Luisa flavoured, a herb native to South America that is often used in teas, and was of all people, created by British immigrants to Peru. How this soft drink managed to knock Coca Cola off the top spot or how it managed to associate itself with all things Peruvian including Chifa is down to great marketing. Eating Chifa is just not done without a bottle of Inca Kola on the table.
Whether you pay $20 or $3 for your Chifa meal, the food will probably be just as delicious- it’s your surroundings that normally change. Chifa is not generally expensive – in fact, it is almost always the cheapest option. Try some Peruvian Chinese food at the following restaurants:
Wa Lok – Jr. Paruro 864-878, Cercado de Lima (Chinatown/Calle Capón area)
Wa Lok II – Av. Angamos 700, Miraflores
Chifa El Jade – Av. José Galvez Barrenechea 579, San Isidro
Chifa Kuo Wha – Av. Paseo de la Republica 5046, Miraflores
Chifa Choy Toc – Av. Benavides, Surco
Chifa Nuevo Mundo – Av. Benavides, Surco
Or almost anywhere else!
——————–
What not to miss:
Seefood Heaven | Creole Classics | Afro-Peruvian | Fast Food | Desserts | Non-Limeño
The Cats of Parque Kennedy
Ancón
Priest killed in robbery at San Francisco Convent, Lima
Peru's hard-hitting Oscar film hope divides opinion [Featured]
Leguías Lima of the early 1900s
Peru at the Movies: The Emperor’s New Groove
TWENTY rare pink dolphins killed in Peru's Amazon
Oechsle - Peru's original department store
Police recover Inca mummy among artefacts to sold on black market
Chicharrón for breakfast, there's nothing like it
Klaus Koschmieder - Latest Chachapoyan Discoveries
Building boats in Santa Rosa
I so LOVE CHIFA!!! And it’s so true, Chifa is not Chifa without INCA KOLA!!
Another affordable dish besides Arroz Chaufa is Arroz Aeropuerto or Airport Rice =]
Nice one. I’m a great fan of en Peru (and yes, of chifas for that matter) Any insight on where the dish ‘aeropuerto’ comes from on most chifa menus around town?
I read the post and saw the pictures and I really want to taste Chifa food. Of course I’ve eaten Chinese food in Beijing and other large cities in China but the mixture of Chinese and Peruvian food makes me curious how the flavor is since I really like Chinese food. The pictures also look great!
I wonder is it really different from the real Chinese food or it entirely different and a different cuisine on its own? Unfortunately, I’m not able to taste this new flavor very soon. But I will definitely keep it in mind when visiting Peru or another country which provides Chifa food.
@CBS – Apart from dishes like Lomo Saltado, I think chifa is less of a fusion of two cuisines and more Chinese (mostly Cantonese) food to Peruvian and Chinese-Peruvian tastes.
It would be great to have someone with experience of eating in China to compare and contrast the food there with Chifa.
@Tom – As you know, the “aeropuerto” is a mix of tallarines (noodles) with arroz chaufa (fried rice). I don’t know the true origen, but it wouldn’t surprise me if it was once a way to use up leftover rice and noodles.
A great piece – I visited Peru in March and, having heard of the Chinese-influenced food in Lima, sought out a restaurant while visiting the Barranco district. The food was excellent and everyone treated the three of us (older women, clearly tourists)very nicely. I took a picture of a gentleman making wontons and would like to send it to him. I need help. The restaurant was on Jr. Union between Av. Jose Maria Eguren and Philipe Pardo – would it be possible for you to locate its name and street address for me?
I haven’t had a chance to check all your entries but want to recommend a wonderful store that features contemporary Peruvian arts/crafts: Dedalo, in the Barranco district. Terrific and not in any of the guidebooks I had. Thanks for any help you can give me on the above. Ellen
gr8 post bro? or sis!
[...] blogger Stuart Starrs has a nice post on Chinese restaurants in Peru, or Chifas, over at his blog en Perú. He rightly points out that [...]
[...] of that mixture now.” The word that describes their mixture of Andean, Spanish, Italian and Asian — in both food and culture — is [...]
[...] Heaven | Creole Classics | China-Influenced | Fast Food | Desserts | [...]
[...] Classics | Afro-Peruvian | China-Influenced | Fast Food | Desserts | [...]
[...] posts featured in this video: Magdalena Market The Potato Chuño Cevichería Sonia Pisco Sour Chifa Arrival to the cities of Andean immigrants Shining Path violence, Peru’s dark recent history [...]